Sunday, December 31, 2017
New Engine - Again
The top end is almost done. I need to put on the exhaust, the rod to connect the flaps on the back side of the fan shroud, the fan belt and the oil pressure sender. I also need to calibrate and install the Save-my-bug. But the engine is now sitting on the run stand so I can start it as soon as I get all that done.
Saturday, December 30, 2017
New Engine - Again
The long block is almost done. All that is left is to install the rockers, adjust the valves, install the flywheel and check the end-play and put the cover over the Type-3 oil fill hole. I'll get that stuff done tonight and start on the top end. I should be able to make some pretty good progress on that too.
New Engine - Again
The case is all buttoned up and the oil pump has been installed. All the oil gallery plugs are also inserted.
This morning I plan to clean the cylinders and finish the long block. With any luck, I'll get the top end finished tonight and I can start it in the next couple days.
This morning I plan to clean the cylinders and finish the long block. With any luck, I'll get the top end finished tonight and I can start it in the next couple days.
Friday, December 29, 2017
New Engine - Again
After getting the final touches on all the parts, I took the case, heads and oil sump over to Dale's house to run them through his parts washer. After dinner I hosed it all down with carb cleaner, blew out all the oil galleries and set all the internals. This has been a long time coming!
New Engine - Again
I spent this morning cleaning the crank and rods for final assembly. This is an 82mm 4340 forged crank with VW journals. The rods are 5.4" forged H-beam that have been notched to direct spent rod journal oil onto the back side of the pistons. Cami helped me with final assembly of the rod right before lunch.
Sunday, December 3, 2017
Engine Tin
Because I no longer have a throttle cable coming through the fan shroud, I decided to weld up the hole. After I got all the welding done on both the shroud and the rear tin, Bill painted them for me because of all the help I gave him on his motor. He also had a Vintage Volks decal made to put under the clear. They look orange, but it's just the light in the shop.
Air Cleaners
While the 2110 was still in the Bug, I built this set of air cleaners. But I never did finish them. There were simply machined and installed with the tool marks still on them. I just finished cutting the grooves and painting them red to match the fuel pump block off. I still have to sand the tool marks out of the top, but I really like the way they are turning out.
Distributor Plug
With the crank fired ignition system, I have to plug the hole for the distributor. I had a plug from the last motor but Jeremy will wind up with it since he is using the same ignition system. So I copied the plug but I added my own finishing touches to it. The screw in the top is purely decorative to match the fuel pump block off.
Oil Pick-up Tube
Because I am running a full flow filter setup, I will not be installing a screen. So I mounted the pick-up tube in the rotary table and cut the top away to let oil drain to the sump faster.
I'll be running a Berg 3-1/2 qrt sump, so I also welded the extension tube on and checked it for leaks. It's air tight.
I'll be running a Berg 3-1/2 qrt sump, so I also welded the extension tube on and checked it for leaks. It's air tight.
Engine Run Stand
I've done quite a bit of work out in the shop over the past few months, but I have not been at all good about documenting it. So I will attempt to get all caught up over the next couple days.
When I broke in the 2110, I did it with the engine installed in the car. With all the heat, the paint on the rear apron blistered and I had to repaint it. This time around, I decided to build an engine run stand. This is an old Harbor Freight stand and I mounted a cut off Beetle bell housing to the original yoke with a couple large chunks of angle iron. Then I built a couple of support arms to keep the motor from twisting or bouncing. I also built a control panel out of an old aluminum cast box I picked up from work. It has a tachometer, oil pressure, oil temperature and ignition switch as well as some warning lights.
When I broke in the 2110, I did it with the engine installed in the car. With all the heat, the paint on the rear apron blistered and I had to repaint it. This time around, I decided to build an engine run stand. This is an old Harbor Freight stand and I mounted a cut off Beetle bell housing to the original yoke with a couple large chunks of angle iron. Then I built a couple of support arms to keep the motor from twisting or bouncing. I also built a control panel out of an old aluminum cast box I picked up from work. It has a tachometer, oil pressure, oil temperature and ignition switch as well as some warning lights.
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