Initial Start-up

I did the initial start up yesterday!  The tablet has the MegaJolt Android tuning application running on it.  The RPM calculation was not being done correctly, but they guys are working on that and should have it fixed tomorrow.  I now have the valves adjusted, oil changed and it is ready to run other then fitting the rear tin.

Engine Install

Last night I was able to get the oil filter installed and prime the pump.  I'm following the ACN start-up procedure so I removed the plugs and push rods before cranking the engine over.  I also go the oil pressure switch and Save My Bug shorty hot oil sensor hooked up.  I also took a minute to make sure I'm getting spark!  The carbs are just loosely installed to test fit everything for now.

Engine Install

The last couple nights I've been able to get quite a bit of work done on the car.  I got the engine installed on Sunday.  I got the mounting brackets for the ignition system components built and welded in last night.  But tonight was the biggest night yet.  I now have the entire MegaJolt/E ignition system installed and it turned out exactly the way I hoped it would.  You cannot see a single ignition system component other then the plug wires where the enter the heads!

White Faced Speedo

I decided to take the time this weekend to finish my white face speedometer.  I plan on putting a set of matching oil pressure and temperature gauges in my center console when I get it built.  I took a factory 65 speedo and painted the face white.  Then I had a used PhotoShop and DraftSight to design the sticker.  I had it printed at FedEx Kinkos on self adhesive clear plastic.  I used red and green report covers for gels.

Ignition System

 I have spent some time here and there over the past week getting my MegaJolt/E system ready to go.  First I installed a serial to Bluetooth converter so I can use the Android application that is currently being written by a group of students at Eastern Washington University.  I'm so excited, this app is starting to really take shape.

Second, I built the wiring harness that will connect the MegaJolt/E to the EDIS, coil pack and the crank position sensor.  Right now the wires that disappear off the bottom of the image are simply log bare wires that will be hooked up when it goes in the car.  This whole thing will be mounted under the package tray in the rear of the car.

2110cc Power Plant

I've had my new motor sitting on the engine stand for a few weeks, but again I'm just getting around to writing it up.  This was built by Hook's Automotive here in Spokane.  I have a set of 44mm HPMX Ultimate carbs and an A-1 Sidewinder exhaust to go on it.  The tin still needs cleaned up and I need to get a few bits and pieces, mostly around the oil system.

Blinker Controller Install

The blinker controller has actually been in the car for at least a month now but I'm just now getting around to writing about it.  The install itself was about as simple as it gets.  All I had to do was remove the old tail light converter and mechanical flasher can and hook the wires up to the new solid state box.  I took the time to clean up the wiring while I had it apart.

Under the lid of what used to be a 4 fuse block is now a PIC processer that drives the controller.  Because of power limitations the tail and brake lights needed to be converted to LED.  I was able us the stock bulbs for the front turn signals and dash indicator though.  I still need to figure out a way to make noise to simulate the mechanical flasher can but that can happen later.

Blinker Controller

One of the challenges of building this car has been the lights.  I am using a 3 wire turn signal switch with snow flake tail lights.  To make it work I had to hook up a trailer light converter and use a mechanical flasher can.  I've not been crazy about that since I hooked it all up.  The indicator light in the dash is dimly light even with the turn signals off.

To fix this problem I am having one of our EEs at work help me with a solid state blinker controller / tail light converter module.  Today was a big day.  We got the board cut out.  We actually cut out 2 boards so we have a spare in case we run into any problems.  Alex will be soldering the components to the board and doing some testing on it for the next couple days then I will do the firmware.

German 36HP Dog House Fan Shroud

I've spent the past couple months getting ready for my new 2110cc motor that is being built.  I have collected all the engine tin, most of the ignition components and a good portion of the odds and ends. Today I thought I would post a write up on how I built my 36HP dog house shroud out of 2 German shrouds.  Let me start by saying, I'm not a mechanical engineer.  This is simply how I decided to work the cooling on my car.  If you decide to do this and you blow your motor up, or worse yet, hurt yourself in the process, don't come crying to me!

To start with, you will need a 36HP fan shroud, a dog house fan shroud, a spot weld cutter, die grinder with several cut-off wheels, a welder of some kind and an alternator/generator with backing plates and a a dog house fan attached. 

To start with, drill out the spot welds along the back of the dog house shroud that hold the heater tube veins in place.  There are 3 or 4 along each side but you will likely only be able to get to a couple on the passenger side (the left as you are working on the back side of the shroud).  You want these veins to come out with the front of the shroud so you don't care if you have to destroy them or not.

Now, flip the shroud over and drill out all the spot welds you can find on the front.  You can see there are 8 or 9 that form an arc around the fan.  These all hold the veins to the front of the shroud.  These are the veins we want to keep, so make sure you don't ruin them.  There are also 2 along the bottom under the shroud.  Again, don't ruin that piece.  We will be using a couple small pieces from the front of this shroud in later steps, so don't get rid of them just yet.

Now you can pull the front of the shroud off.  You will need to cut around the pinch seal that holds the front and back together.  I used my die grinder, but an air hammer would have done the job as well.  There will likely be a couple spot welds you missed that will have to be cut off as the shroud comes apart.  this picture shows a vein along the top of shroud.  This needs to be cut off as well, so now is a good time to dot it.

Now that we have the back off the dog house shroud, we need to cut the back off the 36HP shroud.  This time, it's the back we don't care about, so destroy it and the veins all you need in getting it apart.  You can see the spot welds I drilled in this one.  One word of warning though.  There is one vein above the fan we do want to keep!  Cut the back off leaving about half an inch of material so we have something to rest the new back on when we weld it together.

When you get the back off, this is what you should have.  The 2 veins beside the fan need to come off, so cut them off now.  Just be careful not to damage the front of the shroud.  The vein at the top will need some trimming to clear the inside of the dog house shroud back, but we will take care of that in a later step. 

Next up, you need to replace the center of the shroud with a small piece you cut off the dog house front.  This is for the case stud that the shroud sits on when the engine is assembled.  The 36HP case did not have a stud right below the shroud so we need to make sure our shroud clears this stud on the later model case.  I used an alternator backing plate to make sure the holes all lined up when I welded the new patch in place.

Now we need to clearance the top vein that is still attached to the front of the 36HP shroud.  You can see here where it hits the inlet for the air that is headed to the oil cooler.  You will need to cut the welding flange as well as the vein itself a little.  Cut only what you have to in order for the back to fit.  If you cut too much, you will allow air to escape into the cavity that is formed causing turbulence and reducing the air flow.

Here you can see the trimming I did.  I likely cut too much off, so I will spend some time later, patching the hole when the shroud gets welded back together.  Now is a really good time to sand blast everything and do any additional metal work you may need to do.  As you can see, I had a few holes to fill.  Since I will not have a coil, I started by filling those holes.  I also filled in the throttle tube holes so I can drill it in the correct location later.

Finally, bolt your generator/alternator to the front and set the back on.  Scribe a line in the dog house back around the outside edge of the 36HP shroud where it over laps.  Cut about an 1/8" inside that line so the new back will fit inside the lip like this.  Drill holes about 2 inches apart all the way around the new back, flip it over and drill new holes so you can spot weld the veins to the front as well and spot weld the hole thing together.  You can use the old dog house front as a pattern for drilling your spot weld holes.  I am also planning on drilling the holes so I can run the flaps inside this shroud as well.  Again, you can use the old dog house front as a pattern to drill the required holes for the flaps.  Like I said earlier, don't throw any of the metal away until you are finished because you can use the bits and pieces as patterns.